2004 Toyota Camry Change Front Wheel Bearing

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The 2004 Toyota Camry is a reliable and safe automobile, but one of the keys to keeping it that way is maintaining it. Wheel bearings allow the wheels on your car to spin freely. If you need to replace your wheel bearings, they frequently make a rumbling noise that gets higher as you go faster. Replacing bad front wheel bearings on your Camry can help to prevent damage to other parts in your suspension system. Always replace wheel bearings on both sides of the car.

Tools Used[edit]

1/2-inch-drive socket set
3/8-inch-drive socket set
Torque wrench
Tire iron
Floor jack
Jack stands
Wire hanger
Bench vice
Hydraulic bench press
Torx wrench
Hub puller
Driver and press
Seal removal tool
Snapring pliers
New wheel bearings
Multipurpose grease
New ball joint cotter pins
New axle nut cotter pins

Change Front Wheel Bearing[edit]

  • Open the hood and use a wrench to loosen and disconnect the negative (black) cable on the battery. Wait 90 seconds, to drain the energy from the air bag.
  • Use a tire iron to loosen (3/4 turn) the lug nuts on the front wheels. Lift the front end of the Camry with a floor jack and support it on jack stands under the pinch-weld jacking points. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheels off of the front of the car, to expose the wheel hubs.
  • Pull off the axle nut cap from the center of the wheel hub and use the 1/2-inch-drive ratchet and socket to remove the axle nut underneath the cap. Remove the two caliper bolts, and then the caliper. Use a coat hanger to hang the caliper from the frame of the car. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake line. Disconnect the ABS speed sensor from the hub and slide the rotor off the wheel hub.
  • Find the strut assembly, and loosen the nut on the bottom. The strut looks like one tube that fits into another tube and is surrounded by a large spring. Use a wrench to remove the nuts holding everything to the steering knuckle, including the tie rod end, the lower control arm and the strut assembly.
  • Clamp the steering knuckle in a bench vice. Remove the dust deflector. Remove the nut holding the ball joint and press the ball joint out with the bench press. Pull the inner axle seal out of the wheel hub. Remove the bolts holding the dust cover down with a torx wrench, and remove the dust cover.
  • Pull the hub out with a hub puller. Press the inner hub race out of the axle hub with a driver and press. Remove the outer axle seal with a seal removal tool and use snap-ring pliers to pull the snap-ring out. Use a driver and press to press the wheel bearing and outer race out of the steering knuckle.
  • Press the new wheel bearing into the steering knuckle with a driver and press. Use the snap-ring pliers to install the snap-ring in the steering knuckle. Use a seal driver and hammer to install a new inner seal and grease the seal lip with multipurpose grease. Hold the dust cover in place on the steering knuckle and torque the bolts to 78 inch-pounds. Use the driver and press to push the axle hub back into place in the steering knuckle. Hand tighten the axle nut.
  • Reassemble the suspension. Reattach the ball joint to the steering knuckle with a new cotter pin, and mount the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 155 foot-pounds. Reattach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle.
  • Reattach the brake rotor, caliper and ABS sensor. Have someone sit in the driver's seat and press down on the brake pedal, while you torque the axle nut to 217 foot-pounds. Insert a new cotter pin and press a new nut cap onto the hub. Repeat the process for the other wheel.
  • Mount the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds. Make sure the wheel spins freely. Lower the and reconnect the negative battery cable to the terminal. Close the hood.

Tips & Warnings[edit]

  • You will probably need to have a front-end alignment after this job.